I fought the law and the law won. Apparently the US Embassy has issued a warning that says if you are an American in Kenya, then you have no business being there, and if you choose to stay there then they will not help evacuate you if things get worse. I am not sure what is being released in the news, but its really not that bad. But I have decided to leave early, and "pull the plug" on my project as my advosor has advised me to do. Really though, I haven't got much work done anyways in the last month, and it has been frustrating trying to get some little work done. So I decided it is not really worth it to stay on if I am not accomplishing anything.
Another deciding factor....So my friend Ben lost his cousin last week due to a fatal car accident. I went to his village home to go to the funeral on saturday. The funerals here take two days and we were scheduled to come home Monday morning. Well, monday morning rolled around and we got word that Kisumu was rioting again and up in flames. So we were stuck out in the peaceful calm village. But, I only brought enough clothes and drinking water for a few days, so we were quickly running out of necessities. Tuesday morning came along and we decided to head back to Kisumu very early, like 5 am to avoid the rioters (they sleep late). We made it up to the main road and caught a lorry (like a big deisel). The lorry driver put us in the front cabin, but behind the driver as he made his way to kisumu (no public transportation was happening and he happened to be carrying some things to kisumu airport that is why he was even on the road). So because we were in such a big vehicle, we were able to blow right through all the road blocks that were set up on the road (they block the roads checking for people of certain ethnic tribes). That is when we found out that the driver was from that tribe they were looking for. So we blew through some road blocks, had stones thrown at the lorry (yes, I was officially stoned!) and the ones we were unable to blow through, we had to stop and bribe the youths there. We gave equivalent to a dollar here and there. But the kids were jumping up on the trucks, rocking the back trailer part, and hitting the truck with stones and machetes. They were just being rowdy, no stones actually came through the windows or anything, but I was officially scared, for the first time since this all started. Once we got to Kisumu, the lorry driver dropped us in town, and we took a bicycle taxi home. We encountered more road blocks, and people trying to pick our bags from our shoulders. Nuts, but my friend Ben took care of us, and luckily he knew those stupid kids in Kisumu and he threatened them pretty good and they stepped down. But we managed to get home safely by 7 am and stayed indoors the rest of the day. Nuts. But quite an interesting story nonetheless....
So, I am heading home. Already in Nairobi waiting for my flight. It was a pretty rushed decision and I have been frazzled the last few days tying up loose ends and saying goodbye to the good friends I have made. I hope to come back and finish my work but not sure how the political situation will fare. Kofi Annan is here and has a plan, but its a long term plan and I fear that they will push this country further and further into economic depression before they stop this mess. Only time will tell.....
So farewell for now...
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
Political Turmoil in Kenya
Unlike my Peace Corps friends...I have had not had the luxury of being able to evacuate Kisumu, Kenya. Although my parents have offered, I feel that the Kenyans do not have that luxury so I am toughing it out as well. Luckily, the violence and rioting has not affected me because everyone knows I am not a citizen and have nothing to do with the voting, election, or subsequent chaos. Where I live, the residents are the main supporters of Raila Odinga, the presidential candidate that is believed to have won the election but did not get sworn in because of corruption. Luckily for me, the West (US, UK, and European Union) sides with this region and believes that Raila should have won and corruption did indeed take place. If the West happened to side with the opposition, it could have been a mess for me where I live. I have already had someone blame the manufacturing of the bullets that killed someone on America.
So a little background....December 27th Kenya held its 4th election since independence. The election itself was smooth and peaceful, showing that Kenyans really do want this democracy to work here in Kenya. It took two days to count the ballots, discovering that some ballots were missing, and election officials were caught with them in their presence. Also, some names beginning with A and O were missing from the list of registered voters (many Luo names, the main supporter of Raila, begin with A and O, including Raila Odinga himself), and power was cut to several locations that were up counting the ballots well into the evening. Finally at 5:30pm 2 days after the polls closed, the announcement was made that Kibaki won, which was quite a shock considering Raila was ahead in the popularity polls, and as the constituencies released their individual numbers, he was always in the lead...by a lot. Then all of a sudden, he loses and Kibaki wins.
So the supporters of Raila raised up to show their disgust and anger with the processes that have just unfolded. They began rioting and looting stores in the main downtown area of Kisumu, Nairobi, and several other towns around Kenya. Supporters of Kibaki retaliated by doing the same, and soon chaos and political strife were well under way. The riots though, were not violent to begin with. They were just looting goods, the women taking food and goods they need, and the men taking refrigerators and TV's. The Kenyan police, anti-rioting squads and eventually the Ugandan militia were called in to restore order, but what this entails is shooting the looters and taking the loot for themselves. In my city alone, there were over 100 deaths by police. When this started happening, and when people started being shot for looting and peaceful protesting, the people got even more angry. Afterall, the right to protest peacefully is a component of any democracy and should be respected. The ODM (the political party supporting Raila) leaders were arrested for leading peaceful protests, and then the people began to burn and kill people of the Kikuyu and Kisii tribe (the main supporters of Kibaki). Its quite sad that people were being targeted just by what tribe they belonged too, even though they themselves might have voted other ways, and what does it matter? In a democracy, everyone has the right to vote for the presidential candidate they seem most fit, why are they the targets of such violence and hatred. This tribalism has got to stop, it is fueling the fire in which the people are igniting.
So, I have been locked in my compound (which is a fortress I might add, complete with thick concrete walls and a night watchman), listening to day after day of gunshots, teargas, and rioting. I have seen the legs of chairs and refrigerators being marched past my gate, and a friend of mine who owns a motorbike was supplying my with whatever food and water he happened to run across. Fuel deliveries were halted, all transport to and from the city were halted (the Peace Corps were chartered out of here by private means), and people could not come in from the rural areas to sell their produce. Day after day, more people died, more stores were looted, and more and more people became displaced as their homes and shops were burned.
It is much quieter now, life is coming back to Kisumu and whatever shops that were not looted are slowly restocking their shelves. The lines at the gas stations are longer than ever, and I stood in line for 4 hours the other day at the only supermarket in town that was not destroyed. The morgue is full of unknown or unrecognizable bodies, but slowly transportation is starting to flow and people are able to come in and sell their food, recognize their loved ones and prepare for funeral arrangements.
The West is putting pressure on the Kenyan Electoral commission to hold another election (since it is too late to do a recount and it wouldn't matter anyways since a lot of the ballots were fudged or "lost"), and they are going to use a non-biased third party to do the counting. I think that is fair, and until the country is stable enough, and corruption is gone, this might be the best way to hold all future elections.
In the meantime, I have decided to stay on in Kisumu, finish my work despite the threat of possible future violence and rioting. After all, the people of Kenya can't leave, and they still need health care. I have come here for a reason and I am going to try my damnedest to finish what I started, and offer help in any way I can. Many NGO's are pulling out as the foreign population flees back to their countries, but I do not think that is the answer. I know I have to look after my own safety, but seriously, I do not feel unsafe at all. As long as I stay indoors while gunshots are ringing out, and venturing out only when I hear that normalcy has begun to return.
On the bright side, I believe that many job opportunities will come out of this as people begin to pour aid into the country to redevelop the economy, restore health care, and help the displaced. That is a good thing.
So a little background....December 27th Kenya held its 4th election since independence. The election itself was smooth and peaceful, showing that Kenyans really do want this democracy to work here in Kenya. It took two days to count the ballots, discovering that some ballots were missing, and election officials were caught with them in their presence. Also, some names beginning with A and O were missing from the list of registered voters (many Luo names, the main supporter of Raila, begin with A and O, including Raila Odinga himself), and power was cut to several locations that were up counting the ballots well into the evening. Finally at 5:30pm 2 days after the polls closed, the announcement was made that Kibaki won, which was quite a shock considering Raila was ahead in the popularity polls, and as the constituencies released their individual numbers, he was always in the lead...by a lot. Then all of a sudden, he loses and Kibaki wins.
So the supporters of Raila raised up to show their disgust and anger with the processes that have just unfolded. They began rioting and looting stores in the main downtown area of Kisumu, Nairobi, and several other towns around Kenya. Supporters of Kibaki retaliated by doing the same, and soon chaos and political strife were well under way. The riots though, were not violent to begin with. They were just looting goods, the women taking food and goods they need, and the men taking refrigerators and TV's. The Kenyan police, anti-rioting squads and eventually the Ugandan militia were called in to restore order, but what this entails is shooting the looters and taking the loot for themselves. In my city alone, there were over 100 deaths by police. When this started happening, and when people started being shot for looting and peaceful protesting, the people got even more angry. Afterall, the right to protest peacefully is a component of any democracy and should be respected. The ODM (the political party supporting Raila) leaders were arrested for leading peaceful protests, and then the people began to burn and kill people of the Kikuyu and Kisii tribe (the main supporters of Kibaki). Its quite sad that people were being targeted just by what tribe they belonged too, even though they themselves might have voted other ways, and what does it matter? In a democracy, everyone has the right to vote for the presidential candidate they seem most fit, why are they the targets of such violence and hatred. This tribalism has got to stop, it is fueling the fire in which the people are igniting.
So, I have been locked in my compound (which is a fortress I might add, complete with thick concrete walls and a night watchman), listening to day after day of gunshots, teargas, and rioting. I have seen the legs of chairs and refrigerators being marched past my gate, and a friend of mine who owns a motorbike was supplying my with whatever food and water he happened to run across. Fuel deliveries were halted, all transport to and from the city were halted (the Peace Corps were chartered out of here by private means), and people could not come in from the rural areas to sell their produce. Day after day, more people died, more stores were looted, and more and more people became displaced as their homes and shops were burned.
It is much quieter now, life is coming back to Kisumu and whatever shops that were not looted are slowly restocking their shelves. The lines at the gas stations are longer than ever, and I stood in line for 4 hours the other day at the only supermarket in town that was not destroyed. The morgue is full of unknown or unrecognizable bodies, but slowly transportation is starting to flow and people are able to come in and sell their food, recognize their loved ones and prepare for funeral arrangements.
The West is putting pressure on the Kenyan Electoral commission to hold another election (since it is too late to do a recount and it wouldn't matter anyways since a lot of the ballots were fudged or "lost"), and they are going to use a non-biased third party to do the counting. I think that is fair, and until the country is stable enough, and corruption is gone, this might be the best way to hold all future elections.
In the meantime, I have decided to stay on in Kisumu, finish my work despite the threat of possible future violence and rioting. After all, the people of Kenya can't leave, and they still need health care. I have come here for a reason and I am going to try my damnedest to finish what I started, and offer help in any way I can. Many NGO's are pulling out as the foreign population flees back to their countries, but I do not think that is the answer. I know I have to look after my own safety, but seriously, I do not feel unsafe at all. As long as I stay indoors while gunshots are ringing out, and venturing out only when I hear that normalcy has begun to return.
On the bright side, I believe that many job opportunities will come out of this as people begin to pour aid into the country to redevelop the economy, restore health care, and help the displaced. That is a good thing.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Don't send donations unless they will help
We received a 40 ft container from America today. It was sent by a certain BIG organization in the states that fund us. After 3 months on the sea, it finally arrived and we were all excited to see what was donated. It was full of medications, hospital supplies, and a few computers. But first is first. It arrived in Mombasa and was opened bu customs. The customs officers informed us they cannot allow this container to come into the country because it was full of expired medications. It is highly illegal to bring expired medications into the country (as it should be) so the officers would not allow it. So it was either send it back at our expense or bribe the officers a little kitu kidogo so we can receive it. See we thought there would be at least something we could use in it.
So after paying over 50,000Ksh, the officers finally released it to Monica and she arranged to have it sent to Kisumu. We received it and began to do inventory only to find out that almost all of the medication expired in January of this year or a few months ago. Of the medication that is not expired, it expires next month. The catgut sutures were expired and the sterile alcohol had even dried out. Of the non-perishable goods, they are of no good use. We received a box of single use, disposable nipples to attach to bottles. What poor mother will use one nipple one and dispose of it? More likely, they would wish to use it for as long as possible, and since the material it is made of is not designed for that, it will begin to deteriorate and could be a choking hazard. Plus, we are trying to promote exclusive breastfeeding. Other things, sanitary bags that are designed to fit a certain electric breast pump (not included) So what good are those?They sent glass syringes, and we use plastic. And the list goes on. At least the computers are semi-working. They are very old and have outdated software but I think they can be used with a little updating.
I just hope this was all an oversight because I hear all the horror stories about clinic trials and testing on the poor Africans, and I just hope this was not intentional. It would be horrible to think that this reputable American organization would not really consider dumping all their trash onto the poor poor Africans. Let's just hope it was a severe oversight. This container has ended up costing KMET more money, time and stress than what it was really worth. I guess the intentions were good but ultimately they failed us.
So after paying over 50,000Ksh, the officers finally released it to Monica and she arranged to have it sent to Kisumu. We received it and began to do inventory only to find out that almost all of the medication expired in January of this year or a few months ago. Of the medication that is not expired, it expires next month. The catgut sutures were expired and the sterile alcohol had even dried out. Of the non-perishable goods, they are of no good use. We received a box of single use, disposable nipples to attach to bottles. What poor mother will use one nipple one and dispose of it? More likely, they would wish to use it for as long as possible, and since the material it is made of is not designed for that, it will begin to deteriorate and could be a choking hazard. Plus, we are trying to promote exclusive breastfeeding. Other things, sanitary bags that are designed to fit a certain electric breast pump (not included) So what good are those?They sent glass syringes, and we use plastic. And the list goes on. At least the computers are semi-working. They are very old and have outdated software but I think they can be used with a little updating.
I just hope this was all an oversight because I hear all the horror stories about clinic trials and testing on the poor Africans, and I just hope this was not intentional. It would be horrible to think that this reputable American organization would not really consider dumping all their trash onto the poor poor Africans. Let's just hope it was a severe oversight. This container has ended up costing KMET more money, time and stress than what it was really worth. I guess the intentions were good but ultimately they failed us.
Friday, December 7, 2007
Mob Justice
It's kill or be killed here in Kenya, thats the name of the game. Remember when I traveled to Nakuru and my driver Mzee stopped and bought a machete to carry since we were going to be traveling at night because "he should kill them before they kill us"? Well, I have experienced this first hand, well not literally but pretty close. So 8 men were killed in my neighborhood a few days ago. I have heard varying stories about what really happened but from what I gather, they were either trying to break into a house up the street, or they were staying there and planning a bank robbery from there. The police were tipped either way and they came and killed the 8 men, just like that. And all the watchmen from the area including mine, went and assisted the police in their efforts. I have asked why don't the police just arrest them and the response is this, they are armed therefore the police just shoot. And this particular squad is called the flying squad and when they are called in, its pretty much a guarantee that someone will die. The general police could show up, the group bribe them to look the other way and nothing gets done. Thats the beauty of the corruption in Kenya. So the neighborhood watchmen have to protect their employers (or they wont have a job) and they come together to get a job done.
I hope this story doesn't scare anyone, and you really shouldn't worry about my safely (mom I am talking to you) because I really trust my watchmen! I mean look what happens when someone just tries to attempt a robbery! Plus, all my neighbors know me and know where I live and they watch out for me. I feel completely safe, that incident was a planned incident and it was either a targetted house, or they were there planning to target a bank. What can they get from little old me? I will give them my 100 shillings I carry...gladly!
So mob justice, people are allowed to retaliate for the sake of the general population. That is why it is dangerous to call out "thief" if someone pickpockets you. Because just anyone on the street will come to your rescue, take justice into their own hands and kill the man. It works if you think about it, why would anyone want to pick your pockets in the middle of a crowded place if there is that possibility that they will be murdered by the mob?
Another example, a friend of mine was giving a man a lift on his motorbike (that's his job). When they arrived at the destination the passenger put a knife to his throat and demanded the kyes and the bike. My friend, not a stupid idiot gladly handed over the keys and watched the man drive off. He called his fellow pikipiki drivers who all arrived and found the man. The 30 of them beat and eventually killed the man who took the bike and my friend got his bike back. See the man threatened him with a knife, so they knew he was armed so they take matters into their own hands, its kill or be killed. And its completely legal, the police cant be bothered with such "petty things".
So thats how it works here, quite different to how things are handled in the States, but it seems to work for them, and I can guarantee you that someone will think twice about stealing a car or breaking into a bank-unless they have a death wish !
I hope this story doesn't scare anyone, and you really shouldn't worry about my safely (mom I am talking to you) because I really trust my watchmen! I mean look what happens when someone just tries to attempt a robbery! Plus, all my neighbors know me and know where I live and they watch out for me. I feel completely safe, that incident was a planned incident and it was either a targetted house, or they were there planning to target a bank. What can they get from little old me? I will give them my 100 shillings I carry...gladly!
So mob justice, people are allowed to retaliate for the sake of the general population. That is why it is dangerous to call out "thief" if someone pickpockets you. Because just anyone on the street will come to your rescue, take justice into their own hands and kill the man. It works if you think about it, why would anyone want to pick your pockets in the middle of a crowded place if there is that possibility that they will be murdered by the mob?
Another example, a friend of mine was giving a man a lift on his motorbike (that's his job). When they arrived at the destination the passenger put a knife to his throat and demanded the kyes and the bike. My friend, not a stupid idiot gladly handed over the keys and watched the man drive off. He called his fellow pikipiki drivers who all arrived and found the man. The 30 of them beat and eventually killed the man who took the bike and my friend got his bike back. See the man threatened him with a knife, so they knew he was armed so they take matters into their own hands, its kill or be killed. And its completely legal, the police cant be bothered with such "petty things".
So thats how it works here, quite different to how things are handled in the States, but it seems to work for them, and I can guarantee you that someone will think twice about stealing a car or breaking into a bank-unless they have a death wish !
Sunday, December 2, 2007
World AIDS day and a farewell
Last week was pretty relaxed, and a bit lame if you ask me. I am beginning to feel burned out. I feel like I am working and working, and other people in my office just sit around and watch politics and speeches on TV. Especially when the director is gone, I feel KMET doesn't get much work done. So I took it easy last week. I did get some things done, don't get me wrong, I just wasn't as productive as I could have been.
We finally got the big shipment of Miso in from Cairo so I ran around town delivering it to some providers around Kisumu. I need to schedule the truck to take me to the locations outside of Kisumu, not sure when and if that is going to happen anytime soon. Luckily Monica comes back in town today, so we might be able to push some of these guys in gear and start working.
I finished a midpoint report for both myself, my accomplishments, and the MUE project itself. I am still writing diligently on the Medication Uterine Evacuation Standards and Guidelines, it is turning out to be a huge document, and I wish that I could use that as my thesis, but nope. I have to write an additional paper, that I have only begun to collect research on. I have not yet read up on very much at all.
So Patty left yesterday, he is going back to Nairobi for a final week of classes and wrap us session then he travels for a bit to Mombasa and he leaves the country. He is ready to go, he even changed his ticket to leave earlier than originally planned. So KMET gave him a farewell lunch on Friday, where there were lots of speeches and gifts to be given. It was nice, but went on a little too long. I love how these guys always start a speech with " I am not going to say much" and then go on for 20 minutes. But it was nice none the less. I am dreading mine.
Patty and I went out to a place called Bomas to hear some live Ohangla music and get in his last night of Luo dancing! It was a fun and interesting night, where I proceeded to get the most drunk I have ever been in Kenya. Fun times :) I decided that the beer here, while it is refreshing and extra tasty, it is just not very strong and I just dont feel anything from it. Usually it is fine because I am not looking to get DRUNK anyways, but a little tipsy feeling would be nice. So I have switched to Kenya Cane or Smirnoff when I am feeling in the mood for drunkenness :) And it was on Friday night.
Saturday was World AIDS Day as I am sure you are all aware. Our girls at Sisterhood for Change were invited to perform and speak at the festivities here in Kisumu. It was actually out near a place called Rabuor because they wanted to be more out in the communities. So there were various groups performing songs and dance, reciting poetry, giving skits and talking to the youth and everyone about VCT importance general HIV facts. There were mobile VCT clinics set up offering the tests and counseling for free. All in all I think it was successful. In town there was a marathon for World aids day but they didn't block off the streets or anything. It was interesting watching how the runners had to weave in and out of traffic while trying to keep up their pace, avoiding potholes and ditches all along the way.
Sunday I spent most of the day either watching movies or cleaning the house. I did all the laundry and washed up everything. It was like spring cleaning but in December, and in the heat of the day sweating like a dog. My water still goes in and out so I couldn't even enjoy a nice cold shower when I was done. But I am getting pretty used to the bucket bath.
And this week, I vow to get some stuff done. I get a few weeks off here soon and I should really have some things completed. So off to work I go.....
We finally got the big shipment of Miso in from Cairo so I ran around town delivering it to some providers around Kisumu. I need to schedule the truck to take me to the locations outside of Kisumu, not sure when and if that is going to happen anytime soon. Luckily Monica comes back in town today, so we might be able to push some of these guys in gear and start working.
I finished a midpoint report for both myself, my accomplishments, and the MUE project itself. I am still writing diligently on the Medication Uterine Evacuation Standards and Guidelines, it is turning out to be a huge document, and I wish that I could use that as my thesis, but nope. I have to write an additional paper, that I have only begun to collect research on. I have not yet read up on very much at all.
So Patty left yesterday, he is going back to Nairobi for a final week of classes and wrap us session then he travels for a bit to Mombasa and he leaves the country. He is ready to go, he even changed his ticket to leave earlier than originally planned. So KMET gave him a farewell lunch on Friday, where there were lots of speeches and gifts to be given. It was nice, but went on a little too long. I love how these guys always start a speech with " I am not going to say much" and then go on for 20 minutes. But it was nice none the less. I am dreading mine.
Patty and I went out to a place called Bomas to hear some live Ohangla music and get in his last night of Luo dancing! It was a fun and interesting night, where I proceeded to get the most drunk I have ever been in Kenya. Fun times :) I decided that the beer here, while it is refreshing and extra tasty, it is just not very strong and I just dont feel anything from it. Usually it is fine because I am not looking to get DRUNK anyways, but a little tipsy feeling would be nice. So I have switched to Kenya Cane or Smirnoff when I am feeling in the mood for drunkenness :) And it was on Friday night.
Saturday was World AIDS Day as I am sure you are all aware. Our girls at Sisterhood for Change were invited to perform and speak at the festivities here in Kisumu. It was actually out near a place called Rabuor because they wanted to be more out in the communities. So there were various groups performing songs and dance, reciting poetry, giving skits and talking to the youth and everyone about VCT importance general HIV facts. There were mobile VCT clinics set up offering the tests and counseling for free. All in all I think it was successful. In town there was a marathon for World aids day but they didn't block off the streets or anything. It was interesting watching how the runners had to weave in and out of traffic while trying to keep up their pace, avoiding potholes and ditches all along the way.
Sunday I spent most of the day either watching movies or cleaning the house. I did all the laundry and washed up everything. It was like spring cleaning but in December, and in the heat of the day sweating like a dog. My water still goes in and out so I couldn't even enjoy a nice cold shower when I was done. But I am getting pretty used to the bucket bath.
And this week, I vow to get some stuff done. I get a few weeks off here soon and I should really have some things completed. So off to work I go.....
Monday, November 26, 2007
Thanksgiving in Africa
So we managed to pull off a huge spectacular thanksgiving feast here in Kenya. I am quite proud of myself actually, and we had very few recipes even! The sweet potatoes are a little different here so they turned out just OK, and the homemade pie crust we made was pretty disgusting but other than that, it was delicious! And the Kenyans really loved it too. They had never tasted turkey before so it was a treat, and all the casseroles and stuffing dishes were so weird to them! But all in all, it was great, and we had a blast. About 14 people came in all and it was fun! Hopefully I will get some pics from my friends who were there to put online!
Since then, I haven't really done too much. We are still out of water, and even water delivered is running scarce because apparently the whole city is affected so we really have no water. My house work and laundry is really starting to pile up but what the hey. I can deal.
I have developed a taste for Kenya Cane, its like a rum but made from sugar cane and it is delish! I will make sure and bring bunches of it back because luckily they pack in plastic bottles! Sugar cane is good too and I was put in the mood for cane this morning and could really use some. But apparently the chang'aa I have been drinking (local brew) sometimes they put chemicals in it that has been known to cause blindness so no more chang'aa for me!
So back to work, although not doing too much this week. I am delivering Miso to the providers which will take three days maybe longer going on African time, but should take three days. I have a side job of transcribing that I have been working on (many of you know I have been doing this for years) and luckily I have gotten work here so I can make a little money! I am slowly going broke so if anyone wants to donate to a good cause (me reducing maternal mortality in Kenya - not my drinking lol) then karibu!
Its looking not so positive on getting the camera back. Boo but my lovely parents are sending another with my Dad next month so my camera happy fingers will be busy at work again. I am excited for that! I have been missing out on so many great moments!
And on to Johnson. I dont think I have written about him. He is a kooky character that lives on the streets here in Kisumu. He hangs out in front of the Aga Khan hospital all the time and he is naked. We have this theory that he used to be a doctor there and sometimes when we don't see him in his usual spot we like to believe he got called in to surgery. He wears plastic supermarket bags at night, covering only his chest. And the bags are engineered in such a way that he can keep things in them like pockets. Sometimes I see him pull out bottle caps, dirt, and paper from his "pockets". And I am guessing he is not Luo because he is definitely circumsized, and most Luo's are not. So really we are not sure of his story, but he is just one of the colorful characters here in Kisumu. I fear that if we gave him clothes or food, he would just sell it, or store them in his bags so instead we just marvel at his ingenuity. Oh Johnson! Haha
So with that... I am out. Time to make a delivery of drugs! Hopefully my life will be more exciting next time. Kwa Heri! Oriti! Good bye
Since then, I haven't really done too much. We are still out of water, and even water delivered is running scarce because apparently the whole city is affected so we really have no water. My house work and laundry is really starting to pile up but what the hey. I can deal.
I have developed a taste for Kenya Cane, its like a rum but made from sugar cane and it is delish! I will make sure and bring bunches of it back because luckily they pack in plastic bottles! Sugar cane is good too and I was put in the mood for cane this morning and could really use some. But apparently the chang'aa I have been drinking (local brew) sometimes they put chemicals in it that has been known to cause blindness so no more chang'aa for me!
So back to work, although not doing too much this week. I am delivering Miso to the providers which will take three days maybe longer going on African time, but should take three days. I have a side job of transcribing that I have been working on (many of you know I have been doing this for years) and luckily I have gotten work here so I can make a little money! I am slowly going broke so if anyone wants to donate to a good cause (me reducing maternal mortality in Kenya - not my drinking lol) then karibu!
Its looking not so positive on getting the camera back. Boo but my lovely parents are sending another with my Dad next month so my camera happy fingers will be busy at work again. I am excited for that! I have been missing out on so many great moments!
And on to Johnson. I dont think I have written about him. He is a kooky character that lives on the streets here in Kisumu. He hangs out in front of the Aga Khan hospital all the time and he is naked. We have this theory that he used to be a doctor there and sometimes when we don't see him in his usual spot we like to believe he got called in to surgery. He wears plastic supermarket bags at night, covering only his chest. And the bags are engineered in such a way that he can keep things in them like pockets. Sometimes I see him pull out bottle caps, dirt, and paper from his "pockets". And I am guessing he is not Luo because he is definitely circumsized, and most Luo's are not. So really we are not sure of his story, but he is just one of the colorful characters here in Kisumu. I fear that if we gave him clothes or food, he would just sell it, or store them in his bags so instead we just marvel at his ingenuity. Oh Johnson! Haha
So with that... I am out. Time to make a delivery of drugs! Hopefully my life will be more exciting next time. Kwa Heri! Oriti! Good bye
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Sleeping in the mud hut of the 2nd wife
So I went to my friends ancestral home in a village called Maseno. It was a compound house, with the man's main house in the middle, each wife's house on either side. Each son had started to build their house on the outskirts of the compound. The houses are ingenious, made of mud packed up to form walls and rooms and hardened with a water/cow dung compost. The roof was grass thatched and provided a cool environment all year round. The compound was on a huge plot of land where the family grew avocado, papaya, guava, bananas, tea, maize, etc. It was beautiful but can you imagine working the shamba everyday, on such vasts area of land? Luckily they had enough bulls to help them manage the garden. And their chickens had free range of the compound, coming inside the houses at night to sleep and brood. Each grandma and mother expected me to join them for dinner and I was not forewarned, so of course I ate too much at the first dinner thinking it was my dinner, but low and behold I had 3 more rounds to make, enjoying the chicken stew (each slaughtered on my behalf) and ugali. Heavy rains crept up in the evening thus making it impossible to leave the area so we spent the night. I slept on a nice comfy pad in the floor of the 2nd grandmothers house and awoke at 6am when the roosters started crowing. The whole compound was awake and working including the very young children. I had to make the four rounds again that morning, taking tea and mandazi with each family. This time I was prepared but I was wired from all the tea. All in all it was a good experience to see how rural families live and get by with no electricity or running water. Life was good that weekend!
Since returning, I have gone back to work and continued to crank out reports and documents for the MUE project. We still haven't gotten the miso from Cairo. Apparently it is being held in Nairobi at the customs office because the amount of medication looks like we are importing for distribution. So Monica has traveled to Nairobi to explain that it was donated for private use, fill out documents and get the process moving again. I still have not received the monthly data from October so I cannot continue with analyzing the data and making sure the project is on track to meet its objectives.
I got the package from my mom with all the fixens for thanksgiving dinner and we managed to find a frozen turkey at the local butcher. It was extremely expensive but worth every penny. Luckily we didn't have to buy a live one because we Americans have no clue how to slaughter, clean and prepare a turkey for baking. There will be 15 people at our dinner this weekend (we have to celebrate it this weekend because its not a holiday here and the clinic where the oven is will be closed so we have private use).
So today, I am on a hunt for new contacts. Mine are really bugging me and of course I came ill prepared with enough supply. But I heard they are here somewhere. I am also going to the immigration office to see about getting a residents card because with one I am able to get Kenyan rates on the touristy stuff instead of the tourist price. With my Dad coming and the amount of traveling I will be doing with him and by myself at the end of my stint here, that will come in very handy. Soon I will be a Kenyan resident! YAY!
So my PC peeps are coming into town tomorrow for the dinner. I am stoked, mainly to have some company at my house. It really sucks living there all alone, and when Monica is not around in the main house it makes it even more lonely.
The rains have started to be more heavy and longer, and the bumpy Kenyan roads are becoming worse with mud. But its still hot. Hardly feels like the Holiday season is upon us!
More next time.
Since returning, I have gone back to work and continued to crank out reports and documents for the MUE project. We still haven't gotten the miso from Cairo. Apparently it is being held in Nairobi at the customs office because the amount of medication looks like we are importing for distribution. So Monica has traveled to Nairobi to explain that it was donated for private use, fill out documents and get the process moving again. I still have not received the monthly data from October so I cannot continue with analyzing the data and making sure the project is on track to meet its objectives.
I got the package from my mom with all the fixens for thanksgiving dinner and we managed to find a frozen turkey at the local butcher. It was extremely expensive but worth every penny. Luckily we didn't have to buy a live one because we Americans have no clue how to slaughter, clean and prepare a turkey for baking. There will be 15 people at our dinner this weekend (we have to celebrate it this weekend because its not a holiday here and the clinic where the oven is will be closed so we have private use).
So today, I am on a hunt for new contacts. Mine are really bugging me and of course I came ill prepared with enough supply. But I heard they are here somewhere. I am also going to the immigration office to see about getting a residents card because with one I am able to get Kenyan rates on the touristy stuff instead of the tourist price. With my Dad coming and the amount of traveling I will be doing with him and by myself at the end of my stint here, that will come in very handy. Soon I will be a Kenyan resident! YAY!
So my PC peeps are coming into town tomorrow for the dinner. I am stoked, mainly to have some company at my house. It really sucks living there all alone, and when Monica is not around in the main house it makes it even more lonely.
The rains have started to be more heavy and longer, and the bumpy Kenyan roads are becoming worse with mud. But its still hot. Hardly feels like the Holiday season is upon us!
More next time.
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